West End Eats | Henry’s Salt of the Sea

Maybe you’ve missed Henry’s Salt of the Sea, as the humble restaurant is tucked back on the corner of W Allen and N Lafayette. Maybe you’ve walked right passed it, erroneously labeling it as an old-folks joint. Or maybe—hopefully—you are one of the few West Enders who’ve eaten at Henry’s and enjoyed what may be one of the best dining experiences in Allentown.

Despite its modest exterior—some simple signage and a few retro lights—Henry’s is usually hopping. Inside you’ll find families at tables treating themselves for special occasions, couples tucked into booths for date night, and friends at the bar sharing glasses of Lager.

The restaurant’s dimly lit, with a décor that makes you feel as if you’re in the belly of some early 20^th century cruise ship. Waitresses rattle off the long list of specials from memory. The bartenders ring up tabs on an antique cash register. The music is low, outdone by the clattering of forks and knives. Toward the end of the bar you’ll find Henry’s coolest feature: a small, exposed kitchen, where you can watch your dinner being prepared.

“Kitchen” is really an overstatement. Executive chef and owner Brian Krans and his sous chef (who goes by “Radar”) work just four burners and an oven to churn out as many as 180 dinners on some nights, says Krans. “We do everything here,” he says. “Everything from butchering fish to making our own soups and sauces.”

Before Krans took over the restaurant in 2004, he trained at the Culinary Institute of America, continued his studies at the La Varenne cooking school in France, and apprenticed under a German chef for several years. It’s why you’ll find veal schnitzel on the menu closely followed by sole almondine. “Nouvelle cuisine is nice and all, but when it comes down to it, people want the classics,” Krans says.

Krans personal recommendation? The succulent lobster francaise. Why is it so good? “Well, it’s about 98 percent butter,” Krans says, smiling. Other delicious dishes include a thick cut of salmon bathed by a luscious lemon-cream sauce, house-made snapper turtle soup, garlicky broiled escargot, and a surprisingly tasty plate of calf’s liver and bacon (no, really). Krans and Radar also give steak, crab cakes, and halibut lavish treatments—if you’re looking for a less adventurous night out.

Krans has made Henry’s a family affair—in more than one sense of the phrase. His two daughters and one son both work in the restaurant, helping him to manage the daily duties. But he’s also adopted a loyal clientele, some with standing reservations. “Working in a kitchen like this, I see every table,” he says. And, in turn, the customers can see the chef. Stop in. Say hello. But more importantly: Eat.

Henry’s Salt of the Sea
1926 W Allen St, Allentown, PA 18104 (Click here for map)
610.434.2628

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